Ojai Valley Inn Delights From Fairways to Dining Tables

Need to escape from the tumult of Los Angeles now and again, golf clubs in tow, cares and chaos left behind? Four letters: O-J-A-I.

Chumash for “moon,” the name of one of that venerable tribe’s villages a few thousand years ago, Ojai is a mere 90 minutes northwest from many parts of SoCal. Some 8,000 permanent residents live here, and it’s home to the storied Ojai Valley Inn, with its serene and sumptuous 18 holes that rival any resort course within 100 miles. The 1923 design was the work of George C. Thomas, Jr. and Billy Bell, the craftsmen responsible for The Riviera CC.

But man cannot live by golf alone — libations and comestibles run a close second to compressed iron shots and 40-foot putts for the money and glory. Fortunately for foodies who golf, the Inn is as committed to farm-to-table goodness as it is to maintaining its greens and fairways. If you’re lucky enough to attend one
of the curated events at The Farmhouse, you might chance to meet the property’s “Culinary Gardener” Scott Daigre, or “Master Miller” Philip Asquith, responsible for producing the resort’s award-winning olive oils. Right, you are not in Kansas anymore.

Fortunately, the roster of restaurants at the Inn accommodates a wide range of palates and appetites. On our first night at the property, we opted for a humble pizza pie and a chopped Italian salad from Jimmy’s (as in Demaret) Pub, with an indulgent side of house-made potato chips to make sure we were fully carbed-out for a good night’s sleep.

Did I say humble? The fennel sausage pizza pie with scallions and red onion was wood-fired and served crisp and charred in the Neapolitan style, and the provolone-and-salami dominant green salad was dressed in a tangy oregano vinaigrette. Jimmy’s also does a nice smashburger in both meat and meatless varieties.

Bright and early the next morning meant al fresco breakfast at The Oak, an all-day casual dining venue with forever views of the back nine and the surrounding Topa Topa Mountains. Our server vouched for the huevos rancheros over the Mediterranean baked eggs in a spicy tomato sauce, and I was grateful for his wisdom from the first to very last bite. The over easy eggs were cooked perfectly, the tortilla was crisp and liberally smothered in black beans and queso fresco. And the gratuitous side of breakfast potatoes was enough to feed a small army. (Note to self: Opt for sliced tomatoes next time.)

THE CULINARY OFFERINGS AT OJAI VALLEY INN ARE BOTH CREATIVE AND DELICIOUS, WITH AN EMPHASIS ON LOCAL INGREDIENTS.

That evening we were lucky enough to be seated for dinner at Olivella, which “embraces the seasonal whims of the region” — meaning the menu changes per the availability of choice ingredients from local ranches, orchards and farms. Surrounded by gorgeous terrace views of greenery and sunset, we spent two slow-motion
hours tasting small forkfuls of the $125, prix fixe menu, starting with a Royal Ossetra caviar appetizer, followed by a yellow corn risotto — its subtle sweetness balanced by bites of salty pancetta — and summer squash agnolotti in a pesto trapanese (made with basil, almonds and a fruity olive oil).

Entrée-wise, we opted for a Mediterranean branzino prepared with cucumber and fennel, and a ribeye served with black garlic and blackberries. Both were not just delicious, but chockfull of surprising if not revelatory flavors, all prepared perfectly and explained by our genial and expert server in exacting detail. (Note to self: Bring an Italian dictionary next time.)

We didn’t have a chance to chill at the Inn’s renowned spa, nor sample its Café menu of pressed juices and an intriguing-sounding honeydew and cucumber gazpacho. Let’s just say the vegan hackers in your group will be blissful sipping smoothies there and chanting some straight-drive mantras — assuming the capricious golf gods are in a receptive mood. ▪

For more information, visit OjaiValleyInn.com